End - End Hike Daily Blog

Eileen Klymn (Photo by Barb Griffith)

The Crown Point Road Trek was a challenging but rewarding experience for me and gave me a great appreciation of what the original walkers/soldiers endured. The walk was multi-terrain: paved roads, logging roads, dense woods which had to be bushwhacked, open fields with hidden holes and flowers over my head, dried mud-caked roads, rocky roads, wet muddy trails and steep forests with loose rocks.

I couldn’t have had more tolerant companions than Jim Rowe and Jim Moore. Every morning of the nine days that I did walk, it seemed to begin with a sharp incline which was greeted by more than a groan from me. When just the three of us walked, Jim Rowe led and Jim Moore and I brought up the rear. One such day, we were in the dense forest and Jim Rowe got stung by a yellow jacket; Jim Moore said: “That’s why we let him go first.” I kept getting hit in the face by low hanging branches which prompted Jim M to ask what would happen if I removed my cap. I told him I would get ticks; remedy: put the cap back further so I could actually see where I was going.

We shared thoughts of what the original walkers had felt in much denser woods than us, probably poor footwear, no real source of food, potential danger of Indians and animals. Sometimes it was very difficult to figure out which way to go; one day we crossed the same stream about eight times. Another day, the two Jims decided they wanted to climb “ the Pinnacle” with no real known route. It was extremely hot and bug infested ; needless to say, this was not an easy task. Jim R actually slid down backwards at one point, laughing, of course; I just sat down and slid the rest of the way. I started mumbling about “survivor camp”.
We were truly in beautiful country; landscapes were beautiful. Sights were fantastic as evidenced on our third morning seeing the fog rising in Whiting/Shoreham where we had spent the night. This was also a time to remember for me as I had forgotten to put the fly on my tent and had to run to the car at 3 am due to a severely leaking tent. I had prayed for rain that day as it had been so hot-silly me. (By the way, it took me about 7 days to master putting up the tent myself, even in the dark.)
I was very impressed with the hospitality given to us at the Ellis and Zimmer homes; sharing their stories and historical information about their home sites. Tom Ellis joined us the following morning after our stay there and shared a site with us which may have potential history with the CPR. The Zimmer family also joined us the morning after our stay for part of the day’s walk.
We had plenty of support people. Will not forget George and Nancy; George in his “shots” and offering us “watah”. Becky, Susan and Steve , besides joining us, did some trailblazing ahead of time, marking some trees in some unfamiliar territory. Barbara and Barry joined us at different times. It was actually the first day in a field with lots of hidden holes when Barbara fell in a hole and then I fell just thinking about it.
Even crossing the Twenty Mile Stream did not seem that difficult by the time we got there. We had a lot of fun and marveled at all we saw. There is obviously still a lot for us to learn about the CPR and what was on the Road at different times. Of course, there is always another side such as on the last day, before entering the dark deep tunnels/culverts under the interstate(filled with ankle deep mud) I tried not to think of the fast moving, large snake we had just seen crossing the field.
In conclusion: the road was blazed before we actually had our independence and we are indeed fortunate today to have the opportunity to walk wherever we wish in this country. It is of special meaning to me as my maternal and paternal ancestors traveled this road from New Hampshire to Crown Point, New York, their final destination.

Eileen, Jim, & Jim (Photo by Barb Griffith)

I thank everyone for their help and support in our quest for knowledge and our endeavor to immortalize the Crown Point Road. I thank Jim Rowe and Jim Moore for tolerating my whiney ole self…..

Jim Rowe, CPRA President (Photo by Barb Griffith)

Just a few years ago we realized the 250th Anniversary of the Crown Point Road was coming up in 2009. After many meetings and lots of planning, we had decided that an end-to-end hike and to take 2 weeks to do it would be a good way to mark the occasion.

On August 8, 2009, 250 years to the day when John Stark and 200 Rangers were ordered to make a road from Crown Point on Lake Champlain to Fort No 4 at Charlestown, New Hampshire, we met at Crown Point Historic Site. On Sunday August 9th we started walking. Two weeks later, Sunday August 23rd, we marched into Fort No 4. During the 2 weeks we spoke to many people explaining what we were doing and talking to them about the Crown Point Road. It seemed everyone was interested.

Many would either show us or tell what they knew of the road. We recalled how the road was an ancient Indian Path and would later become the First Road in Vermont. Native Americans used this route for thousands of years and when it was made into a road, crude by today’s standards, thousands of soldiers and supplies passed over the road. It saw military use from the end of the French and Indian War and then during the American Revolution. Many of Vermont’s early settlers used the road to reach their lands.

Today the road can be very difficult to find. The eastern portion has some very nice traces of the road remaining. In the Champlain Valley and along Otter Creek there is not much evidence of the road left. Some of the Crown Point Road is still used as portions of today’s roads in various towns.

For our hike we walked roads, which would closely follow the direction of the Crown Point Road. There was some “bushwhacking” going cross lots from Marker to Marker. I think the most difficult was on the “Pinnacle” in Shoreham. Trying to maintain a compass bearing was difficult due to terrain and huge patches of poison ivy, we came out pretty close to where we needed to be.

Looking back - despite concerns with mosquitoes, ticks, poison ivy, the heat and humidity (some days had to be 90 degrees or higher), the 2 weeks of walking and camping each night was very enjoyable. The scenery and landscape was very pretty as it changed from the Champlain Valley to Otter Creek and into the higher elevations of Shrewsbury and on through the hills and valleys to the Connecticut River Valley.

By walking and camping you were able to take all this in. My companions, Jim Moore and Eileen Klymn, along with other regular hikers; Barb and Barry Griffith, Brook Aldrich and George and Nancy Smith; others who joined us in their areas provided endless conversation. On Bennington Battle Day we talked about John Stark, the Battle and of course, his connection with the Crown Point Road. This hike was a huge success. We made many contacts and have some areas to look at closer to see how they may relate to the Crown Point Road, with some sites to possibly do some archeology.

We had some great places to camp at the end of each day. Each place was unique and special. Each day we would move a truck forward and this would be our destination for that day. These camping areas also provided us with a safe place to leave our vehicles, which contained all of our supplies. The following is a list of our hosts and camping sites:

Tom Hughes, Crown Point Historic Site

Paul And Renee Saenger – Cream Hill, Shoreham

Walter Phelps, Fisher Rd, Orwell

Chuck Schmidt, Sudbury

Jon and Cynthia Readnour, North Clarendon

Pine Valley Farm, Shrewsbury

Barbara and Barry Griffith, Shrewsbury

Kyle Perry, Halfway Encampment, Mt Holly

Tom and Holly Ellis, Plymouth

Meadow Brook Farm Campground, Belle McKnight, Cavendish

Zimmer Family, Cavendish

Crown Point Camping Area, Weathersfield

Bob and Mabel Barlow, Springfield

Thanks to all, you certainly made this work out really well for us.

For the final day we were to go from the Barlow Farm to Fort No. 4, I was glad to be done, yet sad to have it over. One of the high points of the trip for me was on this last day when Brook and I “Fired a volley” at the “Old Crown Point Road Burying Ground” in Springfield. It was great. The smoke from the muskets hung in the air for a while.

We soon came to markers 1 and 2 on Route 5 and after some pictures, we headed south with the Connecticut on our left. The river was high due a couple days of heavy rain showers. As we walked along I’m thinking about how we left Lake Champlain two weeks earlier and all the people we met along the way and everything we had seen and done.

We reached the Cheshire Bridge, regrouped and crossed. After a short walk we arrived at Fort No 4, too bad that they were closed. My wife, Gayle and George Smith’s wife, Nancy were waiting for us and Nancy had brought warm Blueberry muffins and ice cold water. What a Treat.

It soon began to rain again and we headed back to the Barlow Farm in the cars and trucks we had left at Fort No. 4 earlier. This ended our two-week hike on the Crown Point Road; the weather was actually pretty good, not any rain to bother us much until the end. Some days got pretty warm and some days the humidity was high, which made for wet clothes.

I want to especially thank the Purdys, Mom Elaine and her son, Jim. They have been responsible for our Crown Point Road Website for sometime and also did the Blog about our hike. Barb and Barry Griffith provided nearly daily photos and updates about the hike. Marita Johnson, who has filmed much of the hike from the Otter Creek to Connecticut River.

A very special Thank You to Jim Moore and Eileen Klymn. Jim has a tremendous amount of experience hiking and camping. His knowledge of most everything made for some interesting talk, whether at camp or walking along the road. I think his coffee probably fueled us for the days walk. Eileen by the end was getting through the woods much better. We could see an improvement each day. She really hung in there despite some perilous moments crossing brooks or going down some steep slopes in search of a better way. As I could only act as a support vehicle for a couple of days due to some pretty sore feet, I was glad Brook Aldrich could join Jim Moore. Brook certainly fit the part dressed in his French & Indian War clothing and with his musket.

I also want to acknowledge the Shrewsbury Historical Society and Weathersfield Historical Society for coming out and meeting with us.

Thank You All,

Jim Rowe

President, CPRA

The (fill in the blank) Dozen (Photo by Barb Griffith)

Sunday August 23, 2009
With Hurricane Bill battering Maine and heading on an E, NE course, trapping this rainy/cloudy weather front over Vermont the Troops gathered for the final day of this epoch adventure. After photo opportunities-Jim Moore, Jim Rowe, Eileen Klymn, George Smith, Becky Tucker, Marita Johnson, Brook & Carol Aldrich, Joe Pasquariello, Joyce Whitman and Barry & Barb Griffith continued on their E, SE march. We are a dozen today. A number of the hikers are dressed in garb of the period and add to the group’s character (and we are a bunch of characters!!). Remembering that the trip started on August 9th at Marker #64 at the Champlain Bridge we note Marker #10 across from Bob Barlow’s home- 54+ (there were some a & b markers). (There is an arrow on the top of this monument.) There are 9 more markers before arrival at the Fort itself. Jim/Jim say it’s another 5-7 miles (more or less has been the mantra along the way).
Today’s journey would be a combination of road walking, wood paths, brook crossings, bridge crossings, bushwhacking, and tunneling-we were ready!! Our historians today were from this “neck of the woods” which was new territory to many of us. Along the way we chat briefly with the owner of the George Hubbard house built in 1782. The group passes one of the first Historical signs that Springfield erected in 1949. This one indicates the site of the 1st General Store in Springfield.(there will be many more such signs.) We pause at the Eureka Cemetery which harbors Marker #8 with a plaque mounted on a granite boulder in its center and declares “IN MEMORY OF THE TWO SCORE PIONEER SOLDIERS AND FIRST INHABITANTS Of THE TOWN WHO ARE HERE BURIED WITH UNMARKED GRAVES….” Becky motions that Marker #9is just “down the road a piece” but we vote to continue onward after learning we would need to backtrack to here again. (This democratic process of putting the vote to the group has been evident throughout the days of hiking.) We are hot and the day still young!

The Gaylord Spring (Photo by Barb Griffith)

The temps/humidity are rising and we pause to “water-up” and catch our breath as we wipe the sweat away. What was the weather in 1759? Would it have been different under the canopy of the trees? Next is # 7 which reads “THE GAYLORD SPRING AND SITE OF THE GAYLORD TAVERN ON THE CROWN POINT ROAD THE FIRST BUSINESS CENTER OF THE TOWN WAS AT THE JUNCTION OF THE ROADS A FEW RODS NORTH D.A.R. 1912”. I snapped a picture of this marker with the spring running out at its base….I am standing in the stream bed to do so.
Marker #4 is passed but I don’t really remember it….are they all looking alike now? Marker #5 greets us next as we travel briefly on the Skitchewaug Trail (Rte#143) Skitchewaug is an Indian name from a member of the Algonquin tribe I am later told. There is an arrow on the top of this marker pointing NW and 1759 is the date used. We are now on “The Crown Point Road” and continue on to Marker #4 which also has an arrow on top pointing NW. Crossing over Spencer Hollow Road we pause in a field side replenishing our water bottles from the water stash left from earlier that morn by Jim/Jim, applying more insect repellant and generally resting before the next adventure.
The Interstate looms above and before us. Also facing the group is a climb- we see the hills needed to climb. Onward we forge! There are gates ahead and cows in the field to accompany us briefly. Brook locates the first bridge to cross the stream (some have forded already) and Becky locates the second bridge. We know the tunnel is somewhere near…Up a small incline to the last gate which we clamber over one by one….and into the tunnels emerging on the other side of the Interstate and climbing still. I am excited to have finally been able to walk this section of the CPR and experience “THE TUNNELS”. We are on the Old Crown Point Road. Promises of lunch soon- Becky calculates about 5 ½ miles to this point. (more or less). Soon we arrive at Marker #3 which is a plaque set in a boulder in a cemetery and reads “OLD CROWN POINT ROAD BURYING GROUND IN MEMORY OF THE SOLDIERS OF GEN. AMHERST AND THE EARLY SETTLERS OF SPRINGFIELD BURIED HERE, 1759 – 60 ERECTED BY GEN. LEWIS MORRIS CHAPTER D.A.R. 1911”.

Two Gun Salute (Photo by Barb Griffith)

What a fine spot for lunch and a brief respite before continuing on. We relax, rehydrate, chat, share stories. Before departing a 2 gun salute is given honoring those buried here. (Wow! What a lot of noise and smoke!) A trail into the woods is snagged which we are informed is the actual CPR and we soon emerge by Marker #2 and #1. #2 is a narrow stone post 5 feet high and reads “CROWN POINT ROAD 1760.” #1 is on a bronze plaque on a very large rectangular granite marker-both on the W side of Rte #5. We are quite close to the Connecticut River and our destination at Fort # 4! The group is tiring and hot (at least I am tiring and hot) and we continue on now passing many historical areas i.e. the location of Wentworth’s Ferry, the Blockhouse & more. 

The Connecticut River at Charlestown (Photo by Barb Griffith)

The Fort is nearing! The only obstacle being the Connecticut River! Single file we cross the Bridge into New Hampshire. Are those rain drops? 

Journey's End at No. 4 (Photo by Barb Griffith)

We are greeted at the Fort at No. 4 by a number of people and refreshments and cold water!!
As I complete this mini-story it seems I should “wrap it up” but that will need to be a later time. So I submit this for now. Barbara Griffith

Friday August 21, 2009

Photo by Barbara Griffith

Heavy mist/fog greeted the journeyers with forecasts of heavy torrential rain and thunder boomers in the afternoon. Jim Moore, Jim Rowe, Eileen Klymn, George & Nancy Smith, Barry & Barb Griffith, and Jim, Cathy, Elijah, Hannah & Caleb Zimmer begin the day on an old section of the CPR in the woods heading E, SE emerging on Tarbell Hill Road. In fact today’s trip would be a combination of back dirt roads and woodsy old CPR locations. We passed the Old Wiley home which has a bee hive oven and apparent views to the South of Hawks Mt., where Major Hawk may have camped. The fog may have obliterated that view, but added to the ambiance.

We have now passed Markers #_26 &25, both of which read “CROWN POINT ROAD BUILT BY GEN. AMHERST 1760 MARKED BY CAVENDISH CHAPTER, D.A.R. 1915.”(There are lots of CPR markers we pass today. It’s hard to remember each one!) Note these markers now read 1760. The group discusses the transition from 1759 on the previous markers. Jim Zimmer offers historical information along the way on residences, settlers, and such. The heat and humidity build…it is pretty darn hot out here, and we try to pause and re-hydrate.

Photo by Barbara Griffith

At Marker #24 by the old Paine Tavern we are joined by Susan Hunter, Steve Aikenhead and Mary O’Hara, and bid a fond farewell to the Zimmer clan. We are now a group of 10. We re-hydrate again and fill water bottles at a neighbors generous faucet. Continuing on easterly we follow the CPR into the woods crossing a brook with a pre-revolutionary stone bridge with an arched flat stone. Stopping briefly to admire its endurance over the ages, we continue on our now woodsy (and buggy) hike on a well-blazed trail, eventually crossing the Weathersfield Town line. Lunch yet? A terrified porcupine scurries up a tree to escape this frightening group.
Now descending onto Rte 106 to Marker #23. Then down Amsden School Road to Marker #22, an original 11 mile marker stone on the Amsden School Road is next and soon! (are we really only 11 miles from Fort #4?!) Then into Amsden where Marker #21 is nestled behind the guardrail of busy and narrow Route 131. The group wanders down to view the Amsden lime kiln (and avoid traffic) and continues on to Branch Brook Road where Marker #20 stands. Part of the group sits to eat lunch and drink more water (it is a hot humid day), but we are herded onward past Marker #19

Photo by Barbara Griffith

which soon looms on our right with promises of a more “lunchy” spot. The group has been force-marched to here by fresh troops of the day and a near mutiny has been quelled! George & Nancy Smith leave the group here with promises to greet us at Grout Cemetery and provide transportation back to vehicles at Tarbell Hill/Zimmers.

Photo by Barbara Griffith

Ralllying us to the sounds of thunder & increasing cloud density we are urged onward. We are momentarily refreshed and cooled down. We have assumed all day that we would get wet…sooner or later that is. Passing now Marker # 18 which is a crudely lettered store marking the Ten Mile Encampment in Weathersfield we marvel at the age of the marker.

Next is our stream crossing and while I write this I can now say it is a good thing we crossed before the storms hit….otherwise fording would not have been easy or even possible! We scramble up a steep slope and continue through along the well-marked route through the woods. Rain gear is donned as we have been in and out of sprinkles all day, now it rains more steadily. We emerge into the the Plain Cemetery and the Grout Cemetery location. There is a bronze plaque Marker #17 near the gate to the Grout Cemetery, which one can read about in the CPRA Book on Markers .

Photo by Barbara Griffith

The Crown Point Campground is tonight’s resting place for the through hikers and the Pavilion provides shelter for the Weathersfield Historical Society’s Potluck dinner. It was a wonderful repast for the hikers and provided a venue for conversations about the daily hikes.

Dinner with the Zimmers (Photo by Barb Griffith)

Barry and I had a brief visit with Jim, Jim, Eileen, and the James Zimmer Family in Cavendish. The hikers spent the day traversing the Town along with George and Nancy Smith. As you see they were cooking stew(?) for supper.

The Zimmers are reported to be a really fun bunch by Jim Moore (added by Admin.)